Day one of pilgrimage, Walking, walking walking.

Last night was quite bad in terms of getting sleep as I explained in last blog. Had very hard time getting any sleep. Fortunately eventually I dozed off but boy did I feel tired after waking up.

Dog meanwhile wasn't feeling sleepy at all when I came down and cheerily played around with us. Kids are kids! Human or dog...Once again host surprised me and invited for a breakfast. With the price I paid I hardly was expecting not one but TWO meals. I have paid more for no food places!

Again had so much fun talking that it was suddenly time I had planned to depart and I hadn't even yet brushed my teeth or done last packing so doing those quickly I headed onward. And almost got lost on way right off. Luckily host yelled from behind :D Oops. Not a good start...

 
Start was dominated by constant stream of elementary school kids(all with same yellow hats) in groups. In Japan it's looks to be fairly standard for elementary school children to go to school in groups(often with one older kid in charge). I seemed to be at outskirts of Chichibu proper which showed on landscapes. Already got tantalizing view of the mountains around the Chichibu basin.

 
Finally, slightly after 8am(at which temple opens) so slightly(but only like few minutes) late of goal I arrived at the first temple Shimabuji. It's Honzon(statue depictig main deity of the temple) is Shou Kannon which is the basic form of the Kannon(and seems to be most popular Honzon). Name of the temple seems to stem from a legend where monk(?) said(and did) write and read 40,000 suttras and then buried them. This temple seems to be based on that location.


(Mind you I'm translated this from Japanese guide book so I COULD be in error! Basically all temple related information comes from same guidebook)
 

 The bell tower. Not quite sure is banging those OK? Would have loved to hit them to hear the sound.

 
I bought the pilgrim equipment(well most of it) so hakui(white sleeved robe, sugegasa which is the conical hat, staff(in Shikoku it's Kongoutsue. Not sure if it's just tsue here. Kongoutsue comes from Koubou Daishi who shouldn't have much influence to this pilgrimage), some incent sticks and candles, white bag(which curiously also has the ”dogyou ninin” phrase found in Shikoku. Two travellers, one road/practice. In Shikoku that refers to belief of Kukai walking along you. What here? Kannon is with you all the time? Also got wagesa which is basically travellers version of priest's stole. This should be removed before going to toilet or eating. And I managed to hang it around wrong way :D Later at temple #9 I was corrected on the proper way. Oops!


Also got towel with the Heart Suttra for free gift. And got guidebook plus book that looked like might contain some history/legends regarding the pilgrimage.

 
Lost the string to the hat which proved mightly inconvenient but luckily found it later. Until then I was just about thinking to abandon the hat next day as wind was trying to take it away from me all the time. And it kept bumping with my backbag which is constant issue I faced. Not sure do I buy hat for the Shikoku...

After this it was off to temple #2. I had spent quite a bit of time at the first temple but that was due to the shopping I needed to do. Temple #2 looked like it would be toughest temple of the day being up in the mountains.

 I didn't take any sort of tripod or anything with me so taking photo of myself wouldn't be easy and there was nobody around so settled for this. Felt quite weird with that hot but felt it could be useful when sun comes up.

 
The route itself was simple to understand but it sure was steep! And it was quite a warm morning so I was soon sweating a lot. Trees were quite colourful and I felt quite happy here walking in the mountains of Japan(even if it was shortish mountain).

 Little bug I spotted on route. Wonder what bug it's called?

 One book I had read said to ignore this(why?) so I did...

Not sure is that the temple I'm looking for but since there was rope indicating "don't pass" I opted to head back...Just follow the signs where they are.

 One of the oh so many Kannon statues I would be seeing in this pilgrimage.

 One more stairways before reaching the temple.

Temple's name is Shinpukuji and again Shoukannon as the Honzon. This was last addition to the pilgrimage making it from 33 to 34 temple route at the early Edo period(so about 400 years or so?). Temple got burned down in 1860 in fire but in 1904 it was rebuilt. Now it's unmanned(stamp you have to get at another temple).

 
There's old legend according to which old lady moved in to a cave and kept chanting mantra's/suttra's intensively. Monk came around and asked what she was doing to which she said she had been just a normal women but out of jealous had turned to a devil and was now suffering. She wanted to become a buddha(ie enlightened person). Monk started up the temple saving the women who in gratitude created a staff which is still temple's treasures(likely not visible. Didn't see any old looking staff!).

 
Path to temple #3 and the Koumyou temple which gives stamps for temple #2 was steep downclimb and I discovered here annoying problem with the idea of having smaller backbag hanging behind bigger one. It swung left and right wildly while going down causing some balance issues! But the views! Oh boy the views! Bit misty/cloudy but that just added to the effect.

 
Google map gave route straight following roads but on route there was pilgrims sign saying take this small forrest path. Figuring it was shortcut for walkers I gave quick prayer to anybody who might listen that feeling was right and headed in. Sure enough arrived quickly much lower and headed toward the Koumyou temple.

 Ugh. The Wagesa is indeed upside down. "Whoops". Tube over it is my water drinking system. Very nice modern item pilgrims in old days didn't have that I'm happy to have bought. Very helpful.

The Koumyouji temple.

 
Wonder who this is? Shikoku and it would almost certainly be Kukai but can't be him here can he? Didn't see any name plates. Maybe I should have headed back to stamp place to ask...

 
Temple 3 was after quick walk in the outskirts. I started to wonder when I still couldn't find anything remotely like a place I could get food...Host had warned there's no konbinis and guess no restaurants either for a while? I could get hungry!


Temple 3(Shousenji). Still same Shoukannon for Honzon.

 
There's supposed to be stone in Hondou(I didn't see it. Did I just miss it? Is it not normally visible?) which if you hug you will be blessed with many many children. Guess if you can hug it freely should be popular for women? Another legend claims water in the well extends your life.


This used to be part of shrine(Shintoism), which was fairly common in old days, but in Meiji period when they forcibly separated the two religions that had been living happily together temple was dismantled and later moved .

Path to temple 4 was bit less clear if you relied on google map(and indeed it would take you a LONG way. It does not know bridge there is is crossable for walkers) so good thing I kept eye on the pilgrim markers! This temple had been one I had been looking forward from day 1. Kinshouji and this time Honzon was 11 faced Kannon. There's 2 stories explaining why 11 faced, One says that Kannon was so distraught that he/she could not help all the people needing help that his/her head suddenly split into 11 separate heads giving him/her ability to see more people. Another story says another deity split his/her head to archieve same effect out of pity when he saw how much Kannon was suffering.

In 1783 there was(not in direct vicinity) fire that burned most of mountain nearby, Even in Chichibu many many people died. For memorial service for the dead priest set up 1000 stone buddhas and later many more would come all across the Japan. Weather and errosion has taken out many but there's still about 1300 around(didn't see all of them).

 
One particular item of interest is ”Maria Kannon”. Statue of female Kannon holding child in breast feeding. Much like Maria and Jesus child. Similar image appears here and there and it's rumoured these are work of hidden christians when christianity was punishable(even by death) after it was banned around early 1600 and until it was allowed again in Meiji period. They used this way to make christian objects of worship(Saint Maria) but made it look like BUDDHIST object of reverence. (other strategies was hiding crosses behind buddhist/shinto statues etc).

 Hindsight: After finishing pilgrimage I found out this place should have noodle restaurant available. If only I had knew...

 On my way toward temple #5.

 

Temple 5(Gokanodou, Cundhi Kannon who's said to be mother of all deities in Buddhism. Also personification of elightened mind of compassionate wisdom) was again after easy walk.

Legend says that one day man was walking in forerest at night when he came across a monk. They did song/chanting practice all night but in the morning monk vanished to thin air(why always thin air?). Man decided to name nearby building to ”hall of songs/chants” and set up Cundhi Kannon statue there,

Out of the 100 temples in 3 big Kannon pilgrimages only two has this Honzon so fairy rare.

 

Temple seems to have fallen in disuse but at one time there was old woman and her daughter in Nagano. One day the daughter went missing. Distraught old woman searched her and eventually came to Chichibu. Out of exhaustion she collapsed and in half trance she saw Kannon escorting her child. Waking up fully she did find her. Out of gratitude she donated money to repair the temple.

 

So far this had been fairly lonely walk. Few pilgrims in temple #1 but after that I had just seen few local people here and there. Other temples had been fairly deserted.

 Rice fields on the route. Chichibu isn't known for the rice though so before transporation became more effective locals had to figure other food sources than rice. That's how this place came to be known for it's soba.

 

In number order 6 would obviously be next but before that 7 comes up quicker so many people go there first and so did I. Houchouji with 11 faced Kannon. It is said Gyouki(famous priest who lived iirc in 700's. He was active before Kukai and among Kukai and one other are three priests who are credited largely for opening Buddhism for commoners) carved the Honzon and carried it to here where suddenly it became very heavy. Unable to carry it further he left it here where one day farmer found it when cow came around, sat and didn't move until they found the statue there. Then temple was built by villagers.

 Unsurprisingly there's a statue of a cow in the temple! Or rather several.

 First kanji in boku-unji sure looks a lot like katakana for "to". Wonder what's the official distinction is?

 

Temple 6, Bokuunji and Shoukannon Honzon that is said to be made by Gyouki. Fairly steep climb to get there. Took bit of a breather there to refresh my legs.

 Exhausted but happy. Though hungry!

Sorry about finger! Anyway seems this was some sort of farm park etc. Fairly popular and I spotted "eat all you want in 30 minutes" for strawberries. One of my most stupid decisions entire day was not going there to eat them. Ah well.

 

Heading toward temple 8. Saizenji, 11 faced Kannon. Didn't read/understand anything important except there seems to be spectacular fall leaf tree here but photograph is only allowed for staff(and it's not fall colours).

 There's also ”brush gently Buddha” statue. I think this is one of those where you are supposed to be able to give your pain away by brushing said part in statue. Well I tried my luck with feet though they weren't that painful(at least yet). Can't hurt to try!

 

One very impressive tree(wonder if that was the thing not allowed to shoot in fall colour period?) in pleasant looking park(can't seem to go there though but could enjoy it nicely from outside).

 These marker posts were fairly useful. Sometimes markers like the one in left were quite low though. If you plan to walk and don't read Japanese at least learn to count to numbers 1-34 and 番 which is used to indicate "number X". So 十二番 would be temple 12. Sometimes you get it easy and there's number in more common alphabet but sometimes it's in kanji style...

 

Temple 9(Akechiji, Nyoirin Kannon) was set up in 1191 and burned down in 1883. For a long time Honzon was kept in temporal building. Honzon is known for aiding for safe birth and raising good children so guess who are likely popular visitors :D This might come from story how this Honzon was carved at the order of Empress after particularly difficult childbirth.

Legend tells of a boy who read Kannon suttra morning star flew from inside of temple and his mother, who had been blind until then, suddenly became able to see.

 

Heading from temple 9 to temple 10 I was starting to get real hungry(had been looking for ANY food place past few temples but no luck). I came to lights and since I had to go left turned left. The route I was supposed to go was...Well let's just not say NOT a place for walkers. I ummed and hammed and finally saw there was walking pathway on that bridge on the OTHER side. Had to backtrack back to lights and waiting for lights to turn green I looked around and...Caught climpse of a very much ”konbini” looking building. Had I gone quickly over(if lights had been green for example when I came) and turned left I might never have seen that konbini! So time for a bit late lunch at close to 2PM(7 hours no food and all this walking and I was staaaarving!).

 

I was clearly coming back toward city proper which means I shouldn't have problems finding food for a while.

 Shortly afterwards I also saw Japanese restaurant(gee. NOW I find restaurants?) but...Preparations being in done? Wonder when that opens.

 

Temple 10(Daiji-ji. Temple of great mercy I think). Shoukannon yet again. First built in 1490, 3 years later Zen monk rebuilt it. Current building since Edo period. There's supposed to be another of those ”brush me and your pain goes away” buddhas but missed it(maybe I should read my notes when coming to temple...I'll do after wards).

Saw quite an excelent looking flower so asked priest what was it. Tree peony, native flower in China. Wouldn't mind having one myself either :D

 

There was posters of some anime looking thing. Odd place for anime advertizement...But it seems there's collaboration going on with temple hoping to attract more younger visitors. In Japan much like in Finland interest in anything religion type of thing is vaning among younger generation.

 

I caught again a sight of old men and younger looking women(maybe her daughter? Was hard to judge her age) whom I had been seeing in last few temples and would be seeing often enough in temples ahead. There was definite increase in number of pilgrims here compared to the start.

Maybe there's more car pilgrims but they start late enough I got far enough starting at 8 that now that I'm coming to these the car pilgrims are catching up with me?

Leaving temple 11 pair of elderly ladies came. I greeted them and passed when I saw one of them turning around with reaction that spoke of curiosity being pickled(which I don't blame. I'm probably not that usual sight here! I don't think that many foreigners visit this pilgrimage. Shikoku is getting more famous among foreigners but this seems to be less visited still). Well this resulted in me stopping, turning around and initiating conversation by commenting on weather(cloudy but temperature was nice). This surefire ice breaker got us talking so unsurprisingly they were interested where I came from, do I live in Japan(that seems to be common assumption by people. That I live here. When I tell I came for travel THAT surprises them. Guess idea that somebody comes specifically for the pilgrimage from foreign country is odd? Not typical tourist activity probably), what I like about Japanese food, things about Finland etc. Oh and the oh so typical ”your Japanese is very good”. Well I don't know about the VERY GOOD part but at least I get around! Pronounciation sucks though!

 There was very pretty flower at the front of one home on the way to next temple. Hopefully owner don't mind me taking picture of flowers!

 

Saw quite an old sight on route to temple 11. Coin phone! Haven't seen those in ages and they are diminishing fast also in Japan I hear but sure enough here was one...

Back where I came for a temple 11(Jourakiji, 11 faced Kannon). Building was built around 1736-40. During building men had fallen sick and prayed for health. One night in dream he was an old priest and some deity(?) who said he should get better and when he woke up he was

Gyouki is again maker of the Honzon. Busy fellow he was.

 On toward temple #12. Bit surprised I didn't take more photos since I passed next to park. Good view of big trees.

 

Temple 12(Nozakaji Shoukannon once more). Built at 1741. Honzon is hidden one(I think all here are basically. Some temples have Honzon visible all the time, some never, some rarely) that's only shown around in the year of a cow so wouldn't be seeing it now. Statue is made out of one tree in Heian period(so over a thousand year old). Legend says shop owner was travelling in here when he was attacked by thieves. Praying ”Namu Kanzeon”(Hail/Amen to Kannon) with all he could when suddenly Kannon statue in his bag started to shine brightly scaring off the robbers. This shopkeeper then brought the Honzon to this place.

 

Another ”fureai Kannon”(fureai being contact). Another ”rub me” or does it refer to contacts between humans(like meeting new people). Humhum.

 

There was pink flower and bee in it. Zoomed in and took pictures when suddenly bee flew out of the flower. Thanks to the zoom it looked like I was about to get attacked by an angry and a very big bee!

 

Tree I could swear is cherry tree was there but can't be? Weeks ago over isn't it?

This temple had been original goal for the day but I still had time so figured I'll push in couple km's more. Decided also to take detour and go through the park nearby. Closest route there was across this VERY steep pathway. And I pushed hard. I was actually overtaking locals despite having about 15kg hanging around. Of course I was also sweating like a devil :D

 

Not that interesting detour though. Maybe I just missed the best spots since I didn't stay there long time. Maybe I just went through intersections between the real meat of the place?

 Ah how I love these views. It's what keeps drawing me back to here.

 

So temple 13. Jigenji, Shoukannon. Second name(all temples have 2 names btw) is Kikazan, under a flag mountain, comes when Samurai set up a flag in the temples area. There's another building for Yakushinyorai(deity that's said to heal) that has honzon said to help with eye sickness. There's also festival in 8^th of july when they sell candies(ame) that helps with the eye sickness. This comes from word play since the place seems to get often rain(ame) so they sell candies(ame).

 

And there was some festivity going on rigth now(maybe regular thing though? Or because it's golden week?) with staff giving tastes of tea that's done from leaves from tree next to them and which is said to help with eyes. Was actually good taste so bought 10 bags(expensive but hey I'm tea fan and taste WAS actually good). Also got 2 books(surprising priest a bit it seems. Well guess kanji reading foreigners aren't THAT common here :D).

Again the old guy and younger women couple arrived here and at this point I opted to greet and by reaction guess they had noticed me as well(well I do kinda stick out here so if they DIDN'T recognize by now I would be suprised ;)

 

Final temple for the day. 14, Imamiyabou and Shokannon. First non-ji ending name. This temple used to be part of Imamiya shrine but again in Meiji restauration got separated by law.

Ennogyouja(another famous monk. Maybe last one of the trio I mentioned above since I don't know that many buddhist monks by name) prayed for deity for water here. Afterwards water has been used to purify yourself by many pilgrims.

Building built in Edo period and the Honzon is actually work of Kuukai!

This is place where you put candles and incence stick. I had just put on mine. Either they have cleaned used ones recently, other visitors don't generally put them(quite feasible. I have seen quite a few who don't bother with it) or this temple has not been having that many visitors today.

 

Another small building that seems to protect those who are born in year of a cow(cow? What's with all this ”cow cow cow”? Have I missed some cow related legend that gives extra meaning with cows and this pilgrimage? Getting curious).

 

After this I decided to call it a quit. I MIGHT have been able to make it to 15 but I was ahead schedule already so no need to rush needlessly. After this I went to Chichibu station(checked if it has coin lockers, yes though smallish). I then headed for my place to sleep. Decent room by all standards. Can't REALLY complain but if I'm flat honest the last place felt more comfortable. It's not like this is UNFRIENDLY. Oh no. Very helpful guidance and if I have asked something I have got help. Make no mistake I don't have reason to complain. But having just come from place that made you feel like part of family difference is visible. Guess one reason is less talkative(which does give good time to blog though but lack of wifi means my ability to upload was very slow. I can use up to 100mb at full speed and then it slows down) so that's why this comes late.

Also I miss that dog!

But on the flip side this is close to dead center of this place with VERY convenient access to stations etc so for the pilgrimage this is about as good as I can get since I couldnt' book near end of each day.

 

 

Anyway after shower(god shower! Felt like reborn!) I headed back to town and to book-off. I bought big pile of books for souvenirs. I'll put these to coin lockers on friday to give me mobility to other things then before heading to Tokyo. Don't want to say mountain climb with already about 8kg's of book...

Book off staff were ”bit” surprised when I came to cashier with this big pile of books :D Well locals have no NEED to buy these piles at once. I can't buy 1 at a time so when I come here I get a lot of them. Saves on postage prices.

 This room would be my base for next few days. Like the room. Good that I would be able to sleep on futon. I enjoy it and it's not something I can do in Finland so nice to get a chance to sleep in one here!

That's the towel with the Heart Suttra.

 Path I travelled today. Longer than I anticipiated for the first day. Good thing is I'm feeling fairly good despite that.
 

Tomorrow is temples 15 to...What? Original goal was 25 but guess if I got faster today I could get faster tomorrow so maybe 27-28 which would make day 3 LOT easier(which would be nice especially if it rains like promised).

Though it's possible my hyperpace(as it is walked about 32km. Maybe 1,5km more with book off trip. I had planned for less than 20! Wonder how this came? Are the guide book distances bit off? I took longer routes not noticing all the walking pilgrim pathways?) haunts me tomorrow slowing me down :D

Addendum: I'll take back words about lodging I said above. After writing above entry I went down for a walk and started conversation and we had quite interesting chats about various topics. So chattable host after all once I started a conversation. Maybe he wasn't too sure of my language skills? Good lesson to not trust first impressions and be more pro-active.

Incidentally place looks very typical ”ran by men” place :D Very similar to what my own house looks like. Various stuff in various places. Easy to see no wife running things around here. Hahaha.

Speaking of own home one thing that makes this clearly different from say professional hotel is that...Well this IS normal home. That means for example no locks. Just like there's no locks inside my own home(to the home yes, inside the home no) no locks here. So the host did give sensible warning of taking all precious things with me when I go. Sensible advise though if there's one country I feel comfortable leaving stuff unattended it's here but better safe than sorry. But good thing with the advise is I don't have to feel like they might take it personal(he doesn't trust us) when I take(most) of my stuff with me when I leave! It's NOT because I don't trust them but because I want to practice for the Shikoku pilgrimage so I'm carrying the same stuff I'll be carrrying then.

I do plan to leave some of the stuff like souvenirs and books I bought in the evening. I can trust here easily enough for that I think. And 15kg or so today was rough enough! Not planning to carry close 25kg!

The other guy running place(there's 2 persons. The one I talked in emails and guy that was greeting me today) is supposed to come in fairly late. I told them I don't mind getting waked(if I wake) so it's possible I'll get early wakeup(like 1am early!) to see the other guy. If not hopefully I can meet some other time.